September 18, 2002
Random Post of the Day
I sat down and re-evaluated some of my goals today. I'm starting to realize that computer all day and computer all night is making Matt a flabby boy. Well, as flabby as a 6 foot, 135 pound guy can be. Is not a good thing.
This time last year, I didn't have these problems. I was working out 3-4 times a week at martial arts, and I still had the majority of my climbing strength. Then Alison's wrist started getting worse, and the next thing you know I'm without a partner for most activities, condemned to sit around and eat junk food.
Anyway, as I sat there thinking, I remembered a route that thoroughly rebuffed me two years ago. It's called the Angry Man Boulder. Here's the description from the site:
Left and right Angry Man are two of the Front Ranges most excellent sloper problems. From Jaws and the tooth boulder that sit below Little Twin Owls follow a trail uphill and northeast past a boulder with two left angling highball cracks (both very good problems) continue uphill and round a large boulder with a beautiful 25 foot v3 slab. Angry Man boulder is behind this giant, it consists of two sloper shelfs with a years supply of chalk on them. Left Angry Man (v7/8) begins on the lowest shelf and throws out left to the horrible slopers, matches then throws for the bomber lip. The key to this problem lies in a very frustrating heel-toe lock for the first move. It can also be done without this heel toe, but is a little harder. Right Angry Man (v10/11) (not that I have done it) begins on the same low set of slopers and slaps out right in a massive intitial crux move to a bad sloper. Left hand goes to a pinch sidepull, then adjust and dyno right hand to a bad sloping crimp just below the lip. Left hand out to the bomber lip. Both of these are beautiful problems.
I sat for an hour trying to figure out the first moves of this route, and left without even getting my butt off the ground. Here's what the first move is supposed to look like.
This is my goal for the next year. To get back into shape, and stick this problem. God knows how long it will take, but I will be victorious. With anyone luck, I'll even look good doing it.
Thank you for listening. That was your Random Post of the Day.
Photograph and description found at Climbing Boulder. Description by Patrick Vernon, photo by Holly Bernard. All rights are reserved, I'm sure. Please don't sue me.
Posted by Dork at September 18, 2002 04:47 PM | TrackBack